Chris Marshall’s story is a testament to perseverance, adaptability, and the impact of community in the restaurant industry. From a 15-year-old his age to get his first job at a local fast food spot to co-owning Llywelyn’s Pub, one of St. Louis’s most iconic restaurant brands, his journey reflects the relentless spirit of a true restaurateur.
The Early Days: Starting at the Bottom
Born in St. Louis, Chris’s early life was shaped by change and determination. After his parents’ divorce, he moved to Webster Groves with his mother and stepfather. Growing up in this close-knit community, he attended Webster Groves High School, graduating in 1983. With a drive for independence, Chris worked as soon as he was legally allowed to, starting with jobs in fast food and then moving to front-of-house roles at various restaurants.
Though he initially pursued college at Northern Arizona University, it was not the “greatest fit,” and financial independence became his priority. He returned to St. Louis, and it was here that his love for the restaurant industry began to take root. Working in restaurants to pay for school gradually evolved into a calling.
Discovering Passion in the Kitchen
After working in various front-of-the-house roles in different restaurants in the area, Chris realized that owning a restaurant was now his main goal. He felt he must have BOH experience to be a well-rounded owner to get there. Chris’s transition from the front of the house to the back was transformative. He found joy in the creativity and precision required in the kitchen. Inspired to refine his skills, he wrote letters to the top restaurants in St. Louis, landing a position at Chez Louis, where he started at the bottom and worked his way up.
Chris’s ambition led him to Chicago, where he joined the Swissotel’s chef apprentice program and later secured a challenging role at a North Shore Country Club. Despite initially feeling out of his depth, Chris embraced the "fake it till you make it" philosophy, spending nights at home studying culinary techniques to excel in his role. These experiences honed his skills and deepened his passion for the craft.
Jumping with Both Feet
Returning to St. Louis in the early 1990s, Chris worked at Sidney Street Café before taking on a Sous Chef role at Jimmy’s Café in the Park. In 1995, Chris became a 25% partner at Freddie Frog Hammers, a sports bar in Des Peres. Though the concept struggled, it began Chris’s journey as a restaurant owner.
"I think I was young and cocky at the time," Chris reflects. "I thought I knew it all, but I knew very little."
Failures, however, became invaluable lessons. By experimenting with different concepts, Chris developed a sharper understanding of the restaurant business, laying the groundwork for future success.
The Llywelyn’s Opportunity
The opportunity to purchase Llywelyn’s Pub in the Central West End came through a chance tip from a food supplier. At the time, the iconic Welsh pub was a beloved local spot but needed revitalization. Chris moved quickly, meeting with the original owner and securing the deal within a week.
Initially, the transition was met with skepticism. The Central West End community worried that a St. Louis County outsider might change the pub’s character. Chris’s strategy was simple: honor the pub’s history while modernizing its appeal. This balance proved successful, setting the stage for future growth.
Partnering with the Right People
Scott Kemper, a longtime friend and high school classmate of Chris’s, joined the venture in the late 1990s. Scott had initially been a passive investor but became more involved when Llywelyn’s decided to expand by utilizing the upstairs space in the Central West End location. With his extensive construction experience, Scott played a critical role in remodeling the upstairs into a vibrant party and event space. His hands-on contributions and strategic thinking added necessary value to the team.
Brett Bennett, also a high school friend, joined Llywelyn’s shortly after the team decided to pivot from their initial idea of opening multiple restaurant concepts to focusing solely on expanding the pub brand. Brett’s background in banking and his work with Gray Eagle, a major beer distributor, brought invaluable financial acumen and industry connections. His expertise helped solidify Llywelyn’s financial foundation and fostered strong relationships with beer and spirits suppliers, allowing the brand to thrive as it scaled.
But it is not just about the partners. It’s the full team of staff that gives Llywelyn’s its character.
"Our staff has always been the backbone of Llywelyn’s. Their dedication, creativity, and resilience have driven our success through every challenge. We’ve been fortunate to build teams that feel more like family, and it’s their hard work and passion that keep our doors open and our guests coming back. Taking care of them has always been a priority because when your employees are happy, your business thrives," Chris explains.
Expansion and Reinvention
With a vision to expand Llywelyn’s, the team introduced updates, including expanding to a broader Celtic-American theme and menu concept while retaining the pub’s charm and adapting to customer preferences (sports and music). The expansion began with a new location in Webster Groves in 2003. The new team brought Llywelyn’s to their hometown by repurposing a former machine shop, further strengthening its community ties. Additional locations in Soulard and St. Charles followed, each designed to capitalize on high-traffic areas and events like Mardi Gras.
Franchising and Scaling
The brand’s popularity eventually led to a franchising model, starting with a location in Overland Park, Kansas. Though franchising wasn’t part of the original plan, it became a natural extension of Llywellyn’s success. The partners implemented a commissary system to maintain consistency across locations, centralizing food production to ensure quality. This system also supported a burgeoning catering business, providing meals for events like the St. Louis Repertory Theatre and the Anheuser-Busch Soccer Park. Catering continues to be a big part of the business.
Navigating Challenges
The journey wasn’t without obstacles. From initial financial struggles to learning the nuances of franchising, Chris and his partners faced numerous hurdles. The COVID-19 pandemic was particularly devastating, forcing the closure of several locations and the sale of properties to survive. Yet, through resilience and adaptability, Llywelyn’s emerged leaner and more focused.
Marshall said, "COVID was the ultimate test for us as restaurateurs. We went from thinking we might lose everything to rediscovering the basics of resilience and adaptability. It forced us to scale back, focus on what mattered most, and rely on the strength of our community and team. Survival wasn’t easy, but it taught us to value every small victory and showed us the importance of staying connected to our roots."
A Commitment to Community
One of Llywelyn’s defining traits has been its dedication to community involvement. Chris and his partners have made giving back a core part of their mission.
"We love where we live. It’s always been part of our mission to give back. And the more we got involved, the more it helped business," Chris shares. "It just felt like the right thing to do."
Over the years, the pub has actively participated in Webster Groves High School’s DECA programs and other school and community fundraisers and events benefiting organizations like Pedal the Cause and Backstoppers. Llywelyn’s has also provided sponsorships for trivia nights, helped raise money for new turf for local baseball fields, and breast cancer awareness campaigns.
Chris added. "When you invest in your community, you create a partnership that benefits everyone. The people who support your restaurant are those you see at school events, charity drives, and neighborhood gatherings. It’s an honor to give back."
Looking Back and Ahead
As Llywelyn’s celebrates its 50th anniversary, Chris proudly reflects on its evolution. From its origins as a small Welsh pub to its status as a beloved regional chain, Llywellyn’s success is a testament to innovation, teamwork, and a commitment to quality.
For Chris, family remains his greatest source of inspiration. Married for 30 years and a proud father of three, he credits his family’s support as a cornerstone of his success.
Lessons for Aspiring Restaurateurs
When asked about the key to his success, Chris emphasizes the importance of relationships. "So many people focus on winning every negotiation," he explains. "I’ve always aimed for win-win solutions. Whether with vendors, employees, or guests, partnerships based on mutual respect and trust have been essential."
Chris’s story is one of resilience, reinvention, and a relentless pursuit of excellence. It offers aspiring restaurateurs a roadmap for navigating the industry’s challenges while staying true to their values.
